Front wheel bearing
As I wanted to service the caliper and clean up the front disc, I started to try and remove the front wheel hub. The hub has to come out to get the disc off. It wouldn't come out! I got the big hub nut off by getting my wife to press the footbrake as I turned the nut. The effort made my eyes stick out a bit, it was tight. I wasn't altogether happy with what felt like play in the wheel bearing either, so decided to take the whole thing off. I therefore took the caliper bolts out and the 3 nuts holding the alloy hub carrier.
I used a spring compressor on the strut which makes unhooking the bottom ball joint much easier.
Here is what comes off:
The inner hub end looked a little scarred and battered. Uh-oh...my familiar "mechanic wiv a big 'ammer" has been here. I couldn't move it with my own, slightly smaller hammer.
I had to get cunning. There isn't anything to get hold of for a puller. The outside of this assembly is covered up by the hub itself. I decided to press against the disc itself. NO! Not the thin outer braking area which would warp or even break, but the thick central part. By taking the disc screws out (which were tight and need a good hex key to shift them) I could put bolts through the hub holes, and nuts behind to push on the hub. The caliper bracket had to come off, and I also took out the ball joint screws and ball joint. This is the key I used for the disc, actually mounted it upside-down in the bench vice:
With the disc screws out, I put some longer M8 screws into the disc, with nuts as below:
The nuts wouldn't sit flat, so out they came again, and in (gulp) went a metal cutting disc on the angle grinder. A risky manoeuvre, copy at your own risk. You can see above, and later, where I "touched" the hub at the back. Only about 1mm of metal came out, Your hub may be different, or slightly smaller bolts, washers or nuts may work. Anyway, I started to wind the nuts down:
It moved, hooray! I kept the nuts even, working my way around, and the disc sat quite firm and square against the alloy behind it.
Yes, definitely moving :o)
As the pressure reduced, I could start using only 2 of the nuts.
Out she pops.
Another view of my cutting disc work. Hacking great lumps out would weaken the hub. The large arcs are only shallow scratches.
And the outer bearing track, brake disc still sitting around the outside. A light knock and it lifted off.
At the other side, the bearing outer is held by a circlip. The outer refused to budge though.
I used a plumbing type propane torch to heat the alloy, and a wooden drift to knock the bearing out.
It was a little rough and scabby, a little corrosion had been holding it in.
I decided to clean up the alloy before fitting the new bearing. The acid rust remover seemed to do a reasonable job, here is a sample cleaned bit:
I de-greased the whole thing and brushed the fluid around, then rinsed it off. Much cleaner. I also scraped every trace of oxide out of the bearing hole and cleaned every scratch and burr from the edge.:
I dreaded fitting the new bearing. What if it jammed? What if
I ruined it trying to get it out again? I need not have worried. With the
bearing in its wrapper overnight in the freezer, I clamped a steady on to the
carrier and heated it up again to spit-sizzling heat. A tentative poke into the
hole with the bearing, it seemed slack so I fed it down and dropped it. Clunk!
Straight to the bottom of the hole 
I wiped a bit of Waxoyl around the edges while the alloy was still hot, so it would soak down the back, and I relaxed a little:
Next I had to get the rest of the bearing (inner track) off the hub. There isn't much to get hold of. I considered grinding and cracking it off. As a last resort I would have done this. However I decided to buy a proper puller at last. It was a reasonable home mechanic's quality for 31 pounds:
The end of the hub being a big hole, there was nothing for the screw to push against. At first a scrap metal plate worked, but this wouldn't go far enough in. I used a socket and a Mystery Metal Object from my toolbox. See the pull sequence below:
I see my now familiar MWABH has been here too. The second tool in his garage seems to be a bricklayer's chisel. I cleaned the burrs and sharp edges with a fine file, wet & dry paper and some metal polish, then gave the muck and rust a cleanup and paint.
I went to a DIY supermarket in town, and came back with a couple of M12 screws, nuts, and several large washers. Just to try and ease things, I put my nice clean hub in the freezer for a few hours, and the carrier assembly in front of a fan heater. I had no desire to cook the seals on my new 20 pounds bearing so the propane torch and heat gun stayed away. If you try this at home, you will need a bolt 100mm (4 inches) or so long.
The photo above is actually with the hub well into the bearing already. Make sure the bolt sits central and the hub looks square to its entry hole. The washers and bolt head I believe to help keeping the thing straight as they are manufactured with square edges. See below the disc was the easiest part to secure in my bench vice.
I consider this to be the dodgiest bits of the whole task completed, so I probably won't describe putting the rest back together. I bought new pins and tubes for the caliper. All of the screws to reassemble were cleaned and had screw lock compound applied, then a wipe of wax oil where it won't get on the disc or pads.
As yet I don't have a torque figure for the drive shaft end. It will probably influence the end load on the bearing, and be critical to the free play in the hub. Let me know if you find a proper tightening procedure for this part, it will be posted here.
Aixam